AUTUMN WINTER 2019 pre-collection
This Prefall collection plays all the Rykiel key notes in a tune of optimistic and fearless exploration. Silhouettes are fluid and easy to wear, leaving the body free for roaming on a style riff.
Whilst the Rykiel woman remains Parisian to the core, for Julie de Libran she has always been a nomad in mind and spirit. ‘I believe that we are all travellers, whether physically or in our imaginations, and that is what energises us and gives us our inspiration. For this collection I started out with the idea of a vast desert, but not a melancholy space, a place of extraordinary colour and mineral variations, but somewhere you could also have fun!’
Rykiel woman escapes deep into mineral desertscapes, plunders the colours of the earth and rocks, the silhouettes of the Saharienne. She dresses herself too in the stars of the night skies, lamés and sequins, evoking the exuberant spirit of late summer desert festivals.
The designer also takes her on a trip in the silhouettes of the 70’s, with cropped bell-boy jackets and feminine bell-sleeved shirts worn with culottes in contrasting colours inspired by a Marrakesh of that era. Ultra-feminine georgette and sophisticated shimmer velvet in ‘Phoenix’ print or iridescent sequinned guipure dresses offer a modern take on a disco theme.
These wanderings inevitably bring her back to the city. The Paris street is her home and she adopts its style in idiosyncratic fashion. She mixes pieces with nonchalant savoir-faire. A trench and a knit dress, leather pants, a t-shirt and a knit jacket, an outsize sweater with a patch pocket skirt, a ‘Traveller’ print maribou top and jeans. She invents her own dress codes – today in a trooper zip-leg jump suit, tonight in a sweat- dress with sequinned snake scale applique or a georgette and knit mini. Seductive meets playful, lending a youthful air.
Julie de Libran explores the icons of the house and establishes new ones. The stripe is of course ever present, in recycled knits, in ribs, in demi-pulls and double-pulls. The Cherche-Midi sweater offers a new take on the transformable garment, and the Sweat Jumper, a colourful and easy reinvention of the sweatshirt. The St Germain tailoring assumes a safari vibe with patch pockets and a tie waist. Fine stretch wool is combined with georgette to propose the ultimate masculine-feminine new tuxedo. The notion of responsible production continues as illustrated by the choice of fabrics and suppliers.
This is a wardrobe which embraces eclecticism, a distillation of the bohemian spirit of Rykiel. It is at once irreverent and cultivated, combining the high and the low, street, sport, classic, fashion, precious and personal. It is the joyous illustration of a style point of view.
FRANCE & CONTINENTAL EUROPE: SONIARYKIEL@DLX.COM
UNITED KINGDOM: JAKOB@AIPR.CO.UK
UNITED STATES: VV@SONIARYKIELNY.COM
KOREA: JAYLIN@LOTTE.NET / LJR2828@GMAIL.COM